The Swat Valley (The Beautiful Place of Asia)

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Swat is the most accessible of all the valleys of northern Pakistan, the most interesting historically and one of the most beautiful. Its capital of Saidu Sharif can be reached in 4/12 hours by car from Islamabad, or 30 minutes by air. In all seasons you can drive half way up the valley, and from April to November right to the head of the valley, in an ordinary saloon car. Its scenery is gentler and the land more fertile than the other northern valleys. Everywhere in lower Swat you can see terraced fields, startlingly green rice paddies, abundant fruit orchards, and views of snow-capped peaks. In upper Swat the river narrows into turbulent gorges, the mountains tower above and pine forests cling defiantly to the slopes. Swat offers the best walking in Pakistan, and excellent fishing and climbing. For the historian and amateur archaeologist it is paradise; it has several thousand archaeological sites spanning 5,000 years of history waiting to be explored.

Many of the archaeological and historical sites will of little interest to the general tourist, for much imagination is required to envisage Swat as an important Buddhist centre or the scene of fierce battles between the tribesmen and such diverse characters as Alexander the Great and Winston Churchill. Nevertheless, for the dedicated explorer in the tracks of history, we have given an account of most of the sites. As at Taxila and Vale of Peshawar, no single published work on Swat is available, and many reports on the excavations in the valley are either unavailable or have not been published.

Swat's history goes back to at least 3,000 BC when Stone Age people lived there. In 1,700 BC a wave of Aryans arrived from Central Asia. They were the forerunners of the Hindus. They composed the Rigveda, the oldest religious text in the world. In one of the 1028 hymns still existing, a chief sings of a victory won on the banks of the river Suvastu, the Swat.

In 327 BC Alexander the Great invaded Swat on his way from Afghanistan to the Indus, and fought four battles there. From the 2nd century BC to the 9th century AD Buddhism flourished in the valley, leaving behind a legacy of beautiful sculpture and more than 1,400 monasteries. Tantric Buddhism was developed in lingered on in Swat until the 16th century.

From the 8th to 10th centuries the Hindu kings built their fortified cities on the tops of many of the hills in lower Swat. You can still see massive stone walls crowning the peaks on every side.

Mahmud of Ghazni took the valley in the 11th century after a fierce battle at Udegram, where his commanders Khushal Khan was killed and buried. The Moghuls came to Swat in the 16th century but failed to add it to their dominions. Babur took a wife from Swat, and Akbar suffered a disastrous defeat in the Karakar Pass.

In the 19th century the Akund of Swat rose to power. He was a Sufi ascetic with a highly charismatic and warlike personality who united the Swatis and made his capital at Saidu Sharif. He became known in the west because of the poem by Edward Lear.

Who or why, or which, or what,Is the Akond of Swat?

Is the tall or short, or dark or fair?

Does he sit on a stool or a sofa or chair, or squat,

The Akond of Swat?

Is he wise or foolish, young or old? etc, etc

Churchill Piquet:

If it is not too hot, a climb up to the Churchill Piquet on Damkot Hill is rewarding. You can park opposite the main gate of Chakdara fort. This fort was built in 1896 by the British on the foundation of the Emperor Akbar's 16th century fort, and is still occupied by the Pakistan army. The footpath up the hill to Churchill Piquet takes about 15 minutes to climb. The view from the top of the hill is magnificent. On a clear day the whole of the lower Swat valley is spread out before you, against a backdrop of snow-clad mountains receding into the distance.

Here the young Winston Churchill, reporting for the London Daily Telegraph, covered the Pathan uprising in 1897. There was a ragged volley from the rocks; shouts, exclamations, and a scream. One man was shot through the breast and pouring with blood; another lay on his back kicking and twisting. The British officer was spinning round just behind me, his face a mass of blood, his right eye cut out. Yes, it was certainly an adventure.

It is a point of honour on the Indian frontier not to leave wounded men behind. Death by inches and hideous mutilation are the invariable measure meted out to all who fall in battle into the hands of the Pathan tribesmen. We all laid hands on the wounds and began to carry and drag them away down the hill.

I looked around to my left. Out from the edge of the houses rushed half a dozen Pathan swordsmen. The bearers of the poor Adjutant let him fall and fled at their approach. The leading tribesmen rushed upon the prostrate figure and slashed at it there or four times with his sword. I forgot everything else at this moment except a desire to kill this man. I wore my long cavalry sword well sharpened. After all, I had won the public school facing medal. I resolved on personal combat a lame blanche. The savage saw me coming, I was not more than twenty yards away. He picked up a big stone and hurled it at me with his left hand, and then awaited me, brandishing his sword. There were others waiting not far behind him. I changed my mind about the cold steel. I pulled out my revolver, took, as I thought, most careful aim, and fired. No result. I fired again. No result. Whether I hit him or not I cannot tell. I looked around. I was all alone with the enemy. I ran as fast as I could. I got to the first knoll. Hurrah, there were the Sikhs holding the lower one.

We fetched up at the bottom of the spur little better than a mob, but still with our wounded, while the tribesmen, who must have now numbered two or three thousand, gathered in a wide and spreading half-moon around our flanks. The Colonel said to me, The Buffs are not more than half a mile away. Go and tell them to hurry or we shall be wiped out.

But meanwhile I heard an order: Volley firing. Ready. Present. Crash! At least a dozen tribesmen fell. Another volley, and they wavered. A third, and they began to withdraw up the hillside. The bugler began to sound Charge. Everyone shouted. The crisis was over, and here, praise be to God, were the leading files of the Buffs.

(Churchill was getting a column, so it paid him to spin it out a bit). The door to Churchill Piquet is usually open. A shaky ladder inside leads to the roof. From the ramparts you can see why the position was so important; not only does it guard the river crossing, but it is high enough to overlook the Malakand Pass to the west: the Shah Kot and Mura Passes (from Thana to the Peshawar basin) to the south: Barikot, gateway to Buner and to Swat proper, to the east: and the Chakdara plain and the ancient trade route to the north.

The foundations of the Churchill Piquet rest on an 8th century Hindu Shahi wall. But the history of all the hill goes back to 1,700 BC, when a wave of Aryans swept inform Afghanistan and settled in the area. They lived in stone houses, made elegant grey and black pottery on a slow wheel, and cultivated the land using stone and wooden implements. At first their only use of metal was copper and gold for jewellery. But later a knowledge of iron spread into the area, and they made knife blades, hoes, sheep shears, and needles.

One of the many Aryans graveyards that have been excavated in Swat is Samlai, at the foot of the north side of Damkot Hill. The graveyard is still used by the villagers of Chakdara. The Aryans buried the partially cremated body, surrounded by the necessary utensils of daily life, in graves lined and sealed with large stone slabs. Five graves were excavated at Samlai, but were filled in again, so nothing of interest remains to be seen.

Damkot Hill was then abandoned until the Buddhist community resettled it at the beginning of the 1st century AD. The excavated remains of their stupa and monastery can be seen just below the top of the hill on the south side. The community came to a catastrophic end in the late 5th century.

The Hindu Shahi (the Turkish Hindu kings) were the next to occupy the hill in the 8th century. They built a large fort surrounded by a strong defensive wall that extended down to the river, thus ensuring a safe water supply. The houses, rubbish pits, shops, stables and the remains of smithy on the north-eastern side of the excavated citadel are fun to explore. The Hindu Shahi fort was destroyed by fire at the end of the 10th century, probably by Mahmaud of Ghazni, who invaded Swat in 1001 AD, and the hill was not occupied again until the British came in the late 19th century.

At the foot of the hill, to the west, is a local bathing place, near which stand six boulders with Buddhist carvings on them. The figures shown are mostly of Padmapani, the Lotus Bearer Bodhisa-ttva, with his slim body and diaphanous robes. The carving date from the 6th or 7th century AD, when Bhddhism, though on the decline, was still active in Swat, despite the White Huns.

It is possible to drive a jeep round the north side of Damkot Hill, past Samlai graveyard, to a point fairly close to these carvings. The jeep road continues on this side of the river for another 15 km past more unexcavated Buddhist stupas, to a bridge across the Swat river below Batkhela.

Chat Pat: Chat Pat is a Buddhist monastery. To get there from the bridge drive 1.6 km and park just before the road to Dir enters the ford. The footpath to Chat Pat runs left (west) for about 1 km through the fields, past the village, and up the stream. A guide can be found at the museum if necessary.

Chat Pat is a typical Buddhist monastery site, nestled into a fold in the hills beside a small stream, where the monks could retreat and mediate with a peaceful view down the glen, yet within easy reach of the alms-giving travellers on the main road. We recommend it here because it is a reasonably easy, and very pleasant, walk, and the site itself, though small, is refreshingly well maintained.

It dates from the last 1st to the 4th century AD. There is no main stupa, and a landslide has buried the monastery on the east. The site is important because the excavators found there a quantity of Buddhist Gandharan sculpture decorating its 38 stupas and chapels. These were chronologically dated and showed a surprising decline in style from the 1st to 4th century AD.

The History of Malakand

                  

Malakand agency lies at a strategically important position as it acts as a Gateway to Swat, Dir, Chitral and Bajaur. It is in the lower Swat region amidst high mountains thick with evergreen olive and pine trees. It stands at the exit of a pass known as Malakand Pass or Darrah Malakand; now much less difficult to cross than before as one travels from Peshawar to Swat.

In history the name has appeared as Malakhand or Mulah Khandao. The name is stated to have been derived from the words Mullah Khandao. It is the combination of two words; Mullah and Khandao. Mullah means a religious saint and Kandao means a lofty place. Nowadays it is known as Malakand, and the name has been adopted in the same form by many other villages in the Swat and Dir districts.

The area surrounded by Malakand -- on the south till Sakhakot board, on the north Chakdara bridge and towards the east till Landakay comes in the limits of Malakand. In papers the area is still an agency known as Malakand Agency but full fledged district government has been established which is headed by the District Nazim Engineer Mohammad Hamayun Khan.

A part of Malakand is occupied by the Uthmankhel clan of Pukhntoons (Pathans), while towards the south, at the bottom of Malakand Pass, live the Ranizais known as Sam Ranizai. Those living beyond the pass towards Swat are Swat Ranizai. This is also evident in the administration division; where one is called the Swat Ranizai and the other as Sam Ranizai.

The road in the pass has many turns and zigzags and appears to have been scientifically designed. Being a key route to Swat, Dir, Buner, Shangla and Chitral districts the Malakand pass has remained for years the target of foreign invasions. Before the British occupation, it represented Pukhtoon grandure. It was inhabited by prominent Pukhtoon Sardars particularly Ranizais division of the Yousafzai Pathans. The chief town of Ranizais was Dheri Allahdand, where there is the tomb of a holy man, Mian Allahdad, a dervish, held in great reverence by the Pukhtoons of these parts.

Malakand today is vastly different from the land of yore. After partition major changes have taken place. The distinctive characteristic of the land is that it serves as a gateway for trade to the other districts in the Malakand Division. (Now divisional status has been abolished and district governments are set up in all the districts coming in the limits of Malakand Division). The Malakand Pass is the shortest and safest route for trade caravans going towards Swat, Dir, Bajaur, Buner, Shangla and Chitral Districts.

The soil of Malakand is loamy and moist, and is irrigated by the Swat River which flows from Swat, through Kohistan and joins the river Kabul near Peshawar. The average rainfall is not enough, therefore the soil requires artificial irrigation.

There are rare scenic places and tourist resorts in Malakand like Jabban and Malakand hydro-electric project. Water passes through a three-mile long tunnel, and has a natural fall of 350 feet. The main income- generating source in Malakand is the two power houses at Dargai and Malakand Khas. There are about 11 other suitable sites for construction of Small Hydel Power Projects that needed investors attention.

Malakand as already mentioned is surrounded by high mountains rich with mineral resources which are yet to be exploited. However, deposits of chromite iron, china clay and fuller earth have been found in Malakand. There are vast chances of mineral exploration but due to poor status of the local denizens they are not in a position to invest and exploit the mineral resources in Malakand. If investors from the other districts and provinces diverted their attention towards mineral wealth they can find and get vast mineral treasures.

Archaeologically, Malakand has a separate history. The land had remained a seat of Gandhara art culture. It has a large number of ancient relics still unexplored. Buddhism also has roots in this land and places like Penjon, Magoshah, Haryankot, Hati Darrah, Sakhakot, Batkhela etc.

After the imposition of Devolution Plan in the country, District Government has been established in Malakand. Engineer Mohammad Hamayun Khan, son of the former federal minister Mohammad Hanif Khan (Late) is the District Nazim of Malakand. With him Syed Ahmad Ali Shah Bacha works as Naib District Nazim and Abdul Jalil Khan is the existing District Coordination Officer of Malakand.

The High court extended its jurisdiction to this area in 1974 and district and civil judges work here ever since.

Brief History:

Historic ruins, founded at different places in the agency, indicate that this area was part of Ghandara civilization and Buddist peoples lived here. The last Buddist ruler, Raja Gira, seems to have ruled over here about 900 (Nine Hindered) years ago. Sultan Mahmood of Ghazni, a Muslim ruler, came here from Afghanistan through Bajaur and defeated the Buddist ruler, Raja gira.

Later, another Afghan ruler, Muhammad Ghauri, invaded this area and Islam began to spread here. The Yousafzai Pathan tribe came to inhabit this area is the wake of the invasion. About 400 years ago, successive Mughal rulers attemped in vain to capture this area. After the fall of the Mughals, Sikh rulers tried to conquer this area but we repulsed. The British had always looked at this area with covetous eyes but dared no venture to flirt with it openly. In 1882, The British approached to the elders of Malakand Agency with the request to allow the passage of post to Chitral, which was then in the Administrative sphere of Gilgit. With the common consent of Aslam Khan and Inayat Khan of Thana, Saadat khan of Alladand and Sarbiland Khan of Palai, the postal runners were allowed through the Agency in exchange for a considerable amount of money to be paid yearly to each. In 1885, the Chitral relief expedition however necessitated the British intervention in this area. British officer and troops had been besieged in Chitral by Chitralis under Sher Afzal in association with Umara Khan of jandol. To reinforce their forces there, they needed a route to Chitral as the Gilgit-Chitral road, the only route at that time, was covered with snow and they had no option left except to pass through Malakand Agency. The British therefore, laid siege of the Malakand pass. The people fought bravely and offered stubborn resistance to the enemy. The British artillery particularly proving more than a match for the old and rusty guns and swords of the natives. To fortify their position and ensure the safety of the strategically Important Chitral road, they constructed two forts at Malakand and Chakdara with many piquet overhead the surrounding hills. One of them Churchill piquet, was name after Lt. Churchill who later on became the Prime Minister of Britain. Since then the British intervened in the politics of the area. A political Agent was stationed at Malakand to mediate between the British and the people of the Area.

The History of Quetta

                                           
                               

         Quetta – Fruit Garden of Balochistan

Sitting at 1,680 metres (5,500 feet) above sea level, Quetta, the capital of Balochistan province, occupies a strategic position since the boundaries of Iran and Afghanistan meet here, and the Bolan Pass lies on important lines of communications. Located in a river valley, it is connected by rail with Lahore, (727 miles), with Peshawar (986 miles), and Karachi (536 miles). A new road connects it with Karachi through Khuzdar, Makran and Las Bela. It is also connected with Zahidan (Iran) by rail. 
Quetta derives its name from the Balochi "Kuwatta", which means a fort. The city is surrounded by imposing hills like Chiltan, Takatoo, Murdar and Zarghun. It lies 1692 meters above sea level at the mouth of Bolan Pass. The inhabitants are mainly Pathans, Baluch and Brahvis, therefore Pushto, Balochi, Brahvi and Urdu languages are widely spoken. It is famous for its honey sweet apples and many other verities of fruit. Quetta abounds in various varieties of apples and grapes. The orchards clutter the entire suburbs of Quetta and other important towns. For the abundance of fruit, Quetta is rightly called as the Fruit Basket of Pakistan.

The name Quetta originates from the Pashtoo word Kwatta which means a fort. In the beginning, the town was situated within the walls of fort “A Miri” which is now used as an arsenal. The district is bounded on the north by district Pishin; on the east by Ziarat; on the south by Mastung and on the west by district Killa Abdullah.

Till the middle of the eighteenth century, the history of Quetta district is identical with the history of Kandahar. In the eleventh century it was part of the Graeco-Bactrian empire. After that it remained under the Kingdom of the Amir Sabuktagain and Mahmood Ghaznavi till the thirteenth century. In 1470, the Kandahar Kingdom was succeeded by Timur’s. Between 1530 and 1545, the Province of Kandahar was in the possession of Mirza Kamran (The brother of a Mughal ruler). In1622 the Kingdom was brought under the sway of the Safavid dynasty and remained there until 1709. Later Ghilzai came into power and ruled the area. Thereafter, Quetta was transferred to Nadir. Later on history relates that Ahmed Shah Durrani finally conferred Quetta to the Khan of Kalat as a shall (present).

The British Government occupied Quetta during the first Afghan war in 1839. Just after three years, in 1842, it came back into the hands of Khan of Kalat. Due to its strategic importance, it was reoccupied by Sir Robert Sandeman in 1876.

On 26 May, 1876, a treaty was signed by Amir Yaqoob Khan of Afghanistan with the British Government at Gandamak. Thus the conflict which emerged as a result of the first and second Afghan war came to an end.

In 1883, Quetta was formed into a separate single administrative unit (Quetta - Pishin district). Due to its geo-strategic importance, the British built Quetta as a garrison town. They extended the roads and railway network to Afghanistan and Iran. This situation remained unchanged till the partition of the Sub-continent in 1947.

Under the one-unit system from 1955 to 1970, Quetta and Kalat were the administrative units in West Pakistan. After abolishing the unitary system, Quetta was declared as Capital of Balochistan. Till 1975, Quetta and Pishin were a single administrative unit. In that year Pishin was declared a separate district.

Very little is known about the human settlement in the district. However, it is certain that the Afghans and Brahuis are recent immigrants. The Pashtoons appear to have entered the district from the north east, emigrating from their home round the Takht-i-Sulaman. Kasis (A branch of Afghan) are said to have migrated from their home around the Takht-i-Sulaman about eight centuries ago. They made their first settlement at Samli, a village near Quetta city. The Brahuis are an offshoot from the Kalat territory and their presence in the district dates back to the eighteenth century.

With the passage of time, Quetta began to expand and soon it turned into a beautiful small town. The British paid special attention to its cleanliness. However, 31 May, 1935 was a black day in the history of Quetta. An earthquake destroyed Quetta city completely. The Cantonment area survived to a great extent.

The reconstruction started soon after. Till 1947 Quetta was a small town. People used to call it small London. But rapid population growth in terms of rural - urban migration, and influx of Indian refugees increased the population at Quetta. Influx of Afghan refugees during the 1980s helped the slums to grow. New settlement in the form of housing schemes emerged at Satellite Town, Jinnah Town, Samungli Town, Model Town and Shahbaz Town. In Kachi Abadies, slums also begun to develop. The process of settlement continues. Now Quetta has turned into an over-populated city

There are some mounds and karezes of ancient time in the district. The most important archaeological site is a Quetta Miri (a mass of indurated clay). The base of Miri is 183 meter long by 122 meter wide and rises 24.4 meter above the plain. The Miri is now used as an Arsenal. Among other noticeable mounds are one between Katir and Kuchlak, known as the Kasiano Dozakh, Tor Ghund near Baleli and Tor Wasi between Panjpai and Muhammad Khel. Besides, some karezes of archaeological interest are found at Kirani, Sariab and Kachi Baig.

Quetta is also spelled Kuwatah which is a variation of Kot,Pashto word meaning “fortress.” It is believed the city’s name is derived from the four imposing hills (Chiltan, Takatu, Zarghoon andMurdaar) that surround the city and form a natural bulwark. Quetta, is the provincial capital of, theBalochistan province of Pakistan. It is also Known as the Fruit Garden of Balochistan due to the diversity of its plant and animal wildlife, Quetta is situated at an average elevation of 1,680 meters (5,500 ft) above sea level, making it Pakistan’s only high-altitude major city. The population of Quetta was 11,000 in 1891 to a total of between 1,865,137 and 2.8 million according to the 2012 reports which makes it the 6th largest city in Pakistan.

Demographics

Quetta was a part of Afghanistan but in 19th century it was made part of British Raj. Quetta mainly comprises of Pashtun, It also have Baloch, Hazaras, Punjabi and other Minority Groups. Pashto is the language spoken by majority of Quetta residents. Other languages include Brahui, Balochi, Urdu,Punjabi, Saraiki, Hazaragi, and Sindhi.

 
Geography
The area of Quetta is 2,653 km²  , which is surrounded by Four Mountains which acts as a natural fort. Quetta has an imported strategic location, because it act as a trade route between Afghanistan and Pakistan. Bolan Pass is also located there which is the gate way to South Asia.

History
The area was in control by Kasi Tribe Pashtun. The first important incident of Quetta is from the 11th century when it was captured by Sultan Mahmud Ghaznavi during his invasions of South Asia. In 1543, the Mughal emperor Humayun rested in Quetta on his retreat to Safavid Persia, leaving his one-year-old son Akbar in the city. In 1828 the first westerner visit Quetta. Quetta originally belongs to Afghanistan. It was briefly captured by British during First Afghan War in 1839, in 1876 Quetta became part of British Empire. British Troops constructed the infrastructure for their establishment as it was a strategic location. By the time of the earthquake on 31 May 1935 Quetta had developed into a bustling city with a number of multistory buildings. The epicentre of the earthquake was close to the city and destroyed most of the city’s infrastructure and killed an estimated 40,000 people. After many years the city has been rebuilt mainly with local funds.. However multi-story buildings are also built, while a number of buildings of three to five floors are being constructed in the city.

The predominantly Muslim population supported the Muslim League and the Pakistan Movement. On joining Pakistan, Quetta was made the capital city of the newly created province of Balochistan before it was combined with other Balochi princely states (Kalat, Makran, Lasbela and Kharan) to form theBaloch province. Quetta remained the capital of the province until 1959 when the provincial system was abolished under Ayub Khan. After the 1971 war, the provincial system was re-instated, and Quetta was once again made capital of Balochistan. Most of the Population of this City belongs to Pastun Tribes i.e., Alizai, Kasi, Kakar, Khilji, Syed, Durrani.

The History of Peshawar

The Peshawar Valley appears first in history as forming part of the ancient kingdom of Gandhara. This name of Gandhara figures in Sanscrit literature from the earlier times and it is used by the Chinese pilgrims also who visited the kingdom in the fifth, sixth and seventh centuries of the Christian era. Strabo describes a country, which he calls Gandaritis as lying along the river Kophes (Kabul) between the Choaspes and the Indus. The ancient capital of the district was Pushkulavati from which is obviously derived the Peukelas of Arrian, the historian of Alexander the Great. The position of the capital is vaguely described by Arrian and Strabo as' " near the Indus." The geographer Ptolemy however fixes it upon the eastern bank of the Suastene or Swat.

On this and on the itinerary of the Chinese pilgrim Hiuan-Tsang General Cunningham identified the site of Peukelas as near the modern twin towns of Charsadda and Prang. The Chinese pilgrims were drawn to Pushkulavati, as here was the famous stupa where the Lord Buddha was said to have made an alms offering of his eyes. Actually in their day the ancient capital had been superseded in political importance by the new town of Parashawara or Peshawar. There are no authentic records of the tribes seated about Peshawar in these early days. It is, however, established that they were of Indian origin. It has been conjectured with some show of probability that they were an off-shoot from the race of Yadu who were either expelled or voluntarily migrated from Gujrat c. 1100 B. C. and who were identified afterwards near Kandahar and in the hill country round Kabul.

Some authorities would actually find in the Gaduns who reside in the hills to the north-east of Swabi and in the Hazara District a last remnant of this ancient race. With the invasion of Alexander the mists, which obscure the early history of the countries near the Indus River in the northwest, begin to clear. According to Arrian, who wrote in Greek an account of Alexander's Asiatic expedition called the " Anabasis of Alexander," the armies of the Macedonian king reached the' Indus by two separate routes-one direct through the Khyber Pass and the other accompanied by Alexander himself through Kunar, Bajaur, Swat and Buner (326 B. C.)

The first Greek invasion however left little trace on Peshawar. Alexander had hardly left India when the valley came under the sway of the Buddhist King Chandra Gupta (the Sandrokottos of the Greek historian) who reigned 321-297 B. C. In 323 B. C.Alexander the Great died at Babylon. About 20 years later Seleucus attempted to recover the-Indian-possessions f the Greek empire and passed the Indus with an army for this purpose. 

He was content however in the end to conclude a treaty with Buddhist king by the terms of which all the territories claimed by the Greeks cast of the Indus together with the Peshawar and Kabul Valleys west of that river were formally eeded to Chandragupta, who furnished Seleucus in return with 500 elephants. Chandragupta was succeeded first by his son Bindusara and then by his famous grandson Asoka (269-227 B. C.) Asoka's fame rests chiefly on his position as the great patron of Buddhism. As such he has often been compared to Constantine the Great, the royal patron of Roman Christianity. 

In his reign the Buddhist faith was extended to Peshawar, Kabul and Kashmir. This is the period of the famous rock edicts -inscriptions cut into hard rocks or pillars of stone by command of the king himself and often recording his own words. The object of these inscriptions was ethical and religious rather than historical or political.

They were not, like the equally famous cuneiform inscriptions of the Persian King Darius, intended to convey to posterity a record of conquests or of the extent of a migty ebut to further the temporal and spiritual welfare of the subjects of the Buddhist king. One of these edicts was graven on rock near the village of Shahbazgarha in Yasafzai. Its characters may now be traced with difficulty after the lapse of more than twenty centuries. It remains, however, a curious relic of this older time and a reminder that human empires have their day.

The Peshawar Valley was later to see a revival of Brahmanism when Buddhist monks were massacred and driven out. The Greeks too again appeared under Menander, King of Bactria. Scythian and Indian masters followed, the latter finally retaining control of the valley till the 7th century of the Christian era. Fa Hian, a Chinese pilgrim, visited the Peshawar Valley in the fifth century A. D. and was followed some two centuries later by his countryman and co-religionist Hiuan-Tsang. During the visit of the former Buddhism was still the dominant religion of the inhabitants of the valley but at the time of the tatter's pilgrimage it was fast losing place. 

The Buddhist faith had therefore prevailed in the country round Peshawar for upwards of nine centuries. It can easily be imagined therefore that tile antiquities of this period in the Peshawar Valley are of peculiar interest and importance. For places of archaeological interest reference may be made to Chapter IV, and for objects of art to Appendix No. 3. Numerous coins of various periods-Grecian, Bactrian, Scythian, Hindu and Muslim-have been found at these sites and elsewhere in the district. Collections of these may be viewed at the Museum at Peshawar and at Lahore. There have been several well-known private collections also. Some of the finest Gandharan sculptures extant are to be seen in the Guides Mess at Mardan.

Before the close of the seventh century a new race-the Afghans or Pathans-appeared upon the scene. This people are first heard of as holding the hills of Ghor and Suliman about the middle of the seventh century A. D. at the time when Persia first succumbed to the force of Mohammadan arms. Against the Arab wave of conquest the Pathans appear not only to have held their own but also to have commenced about the same period a series of attacks upon their Indian neighbours of the countries bordering on the Indus.

Ferishta records a campaign of 70 pitched battles in five months when in the event the Pathans succeeded in wresting a portion of the plain country near the Indus from the Rajahs of Lahore. Joined later by the Gakkars who at this period held all the country from the Indus to the Jhelum the Pathans c. 700 A. D. compelled the Lahore rulers to cede to them all the hill country west of the Indus and south of the Kabul River on condition of their guarding that frontier of Hindustan against invasion.

Even after this date however the plain of Peshawar and apparently the Jalalabad plain still further west together with the hills to the north including modern Swat, Buner, etc., were occupied by tribes connected with India who appear to have been left un-molested. In the 10th century Peshawar came for-the first time under foreign yoke when Sabuktagin of Ghazni defeated Jaipal, the Hindu Prince of Lahore, near Laghman in Afghanistan and drove his armies across the Indus with great slaughter (978 A. D.). The conqueror took possession of all the country west of the Indus and left his Lieutenant Abu All as Governor of Peshawar with an army of 10,000 horses.In this campaign the Pathans sided with Sabuktagin and furnished soldiers to his army.

Sabuktagin was succeeded in the year 997 by his celebrated son Mahmud. The Hindu princes of Lahore had made repeated attempts to recover their trans-Indus territories, and in the reign of Mahmud, the plains of Peshawar were the scenes of many great battles. The first of these encounters took place in 1001 near Nowshera when the Hindus were again routed, Jaipal himself being taken prisoner. The Pathans prior to this battle had changed their allegiance and sided with Lahore. They were severely chastised therefore by Mahmud and as they had by now become converted to the Mohammadan faith, they were afterwards true to their allegiance and joined the Sultan in all his wars against the infidels. For his invasions of India in 1017 and 1023 Mahmud made Peshawar the rallying point of his forces of which Pathans now formed an integral part. The Pathan chiefs were treated with special favour in his camp and he encouraged the tribesmen to settle in the hill country west of Peshawar with a view to their forming a bulwark between his own country and that of his enemies of Hindustan. From this time and for a century and more Peshawar remained a province of Ghazni under Mahmud numerous successors.

Under the later princes of this line the place acquired considerable importance as a central stronghold of their dominions which then extended to Lahore whither the royal residence had also been transferred. The first settlement of any tribe of undoubted Afghan origin in the plains of the Peshawar District took place, as will be subsequently related, in the fifteenth century. Long before this date however sections of the Dilazak tribe, to whom some authorities attribute Pathan descent but whom the Pathans themselves declare to be of Indian origin, had settled round Peshawar. The Dilazak by their superior numbers overweighed and finally absorbed the indigenous population, which had held the valley prior to their advent. The latter are described as few in number-a quiet race chiefly pastoral and still unconverted. In the eleventh century the Dilazak--intermarried and much fused with the previous indigenous population-held all the plain of Peshawar south of the Kabul river and their settlements spread even to the modern Chach tract on the left bank of the Indus.

They paid tribute regularly at this period to the local Governors appointed from Ghazni. In the same century the Pathans of Ghor rose in revolt against their Ghaznavite over-lords and the empire founded by Mahmud was destroyed.Many extensive immigrations of Pathan tribesmen into the hill country west of Peshawar date from this period. The invasion of the Peshawar Valley by Pathans in force was however due to other causes. The Pathan traditional history of the occupation of the Peshawar Valley, perhaps little more than an epic, is as follows: - Two Pathan brothers Khakhai and Ghori had in the earlier times given their names to two of the great divisions of the nation then seated round Kandahar. The country in possession of the tribe was held jointly by both sections. As numbers increased partition of their territory was forced upon them and in the division, which ensued the Khakhais, being the weaker section, received an unequal share.

Even from this portion they were subsequently ejected by their stronger Ghori kinsmen, and accompanied by Utman Khel and Mohammadzai sections belonging to other divisions they left their ancient seats and about the middle of the. 13th century settled near Kabul. Here they increased in numbers and wealth and finally came to be grouped into three principal clans Yusufzais, Gigianis and Turkilanis. Restless and turbulent they came into conflict with Ulug Beg (who was the eldest; son of Shiroch, the son of Taimur and uncle of Babar), who then ruled at Kabul, and were finally driven out of their new habitations also. Leaving Kabul they settled in Basaul and round Jalalabad. They endeavoured to take possession of Bajaur but were repulsed. Finally three sections- the Yusafzais, Gigianis and Mohammadzais entered the Peshawar plain, where they begged a portion of laud from the Dilazaks on which to settle.

This was granted and the newcomers settled in the Charsadda Doaba. They did not how ever for long sustain the role of suppliants. Native historians lay the blame for the quarrel which ensued on the cattle-lifting propensities of the Dilazaks but the contrary is the more likely supposition. In any case a great battle Pathan v. Dilazak eventuated and the Dilazaks were routed with great slaughter. After their defeat practically the entire tribe is said to have left the country north of the Kabul River and fled precipitately to Hazara. The Pathans proceeded to partition the vacant land among them. The Gigianis received the Doaba as their portion, to the Mohammadzais was assigned Hashtnagar, and to the Yusafzais the remainder of the country north of the Kabul river.

Later the Yusafzais, bent on further conquests, prepared to take possession of Swat moving for that purpose to Sakhakot. Making a faint attack on the Mora Pass-a manoeuvre which it is interesting to note was repeated by the British forces in 1895-they occupied the Malakand Pass by night and fell upon the astonished Swatis who were instantly routed. Lower Swat become from this date a possession of the Yusafzais.Meanwhile the seats of the Khakhai Pathans in Basaul and Jalalabad were occupied by the Ghori clans-- Khalil, Mohmand and Daudzai. These spread eastward till they occupied the hills between Lalpura and the Peshawar Valley, now the country of the upper Mohmands.

This was the state of affairs at the end of the fifteenth century. In the year 1505 the Emperor Babar, who had acquired the sovereignty of Kabul and Ghazni in the previous year from the usurper Mokim, invaded. Peshawar via Jalalabad (then called Adinpur) and the Khyber Pass. He made however no prolonged stay in the valley, being diverted on a marauding expedition towards Kohat and Bannu and returning by the Sakhi Sarwar Pass and Bori to Ghazni. Ten years later lie turned his attention to the Pathans and invaded and subdued Bajaur and Swat. Descending from Swat Babar harried the plain lands of the Yusafzais and Mohammadzais and erecting a fort at Peshawar, he left a garrison there as a point d'appui for his invasions of India. The first of these followed in 1519 when he crossed the Indus above Attock and defecated the Gakkars in the Chach.

His subsequent invasions of India did not affect the tribes about Peshawar who were left very much to themselves and reverted to their previous condition of independence. Babar died at Agra in 1530. In the reign of Humayun his son the, Ghoria Khel Pathans-Khalil, Mohmand and Daudzai-entered the plain of Peshawar. Dilazak sections still held the country south of the Kabul River. The branch of the Khattak." known as the Akora Khattaks settled soon afterwards with the permission of Akbar on the south of the Kabul River in the vicinity of Akora. They were originally under one chief Khushal Khan who undertook to protect the road from Attock to Peshawar receiving in return a grant of land between Khairabad and Nowshera.

The tribe has been fully described in Section C. of this Chapter. In 1586 the Emperor Akbar on his return from Kashmir passed through the Peshawar Valley and determined on the subjugation of the Pathan tribes. Several expeditions were undertaken and the plain country was easily subdued. When his armies attempted to force the Swat Passes, however, they were three times repulsed by the tribesmen with heavy losses. Realising after these defeats the futility of becoming involved in guerilla warfare in the hills where the enemy could not be forced to a decisive action, the Emperor's commanders satisfied themselves with occupying positions in the plain where they fortified themselves and prevented the Pathans from cultivating their lands. This measure proved so harassing to the tribes that they tenderd a more or less nominal submission which enabled Akbar to accept an agreement from them and to turn his attention elsewhere.

No more complete subjugation of the Peshawar tribes was attempted in Akbar's time. He confined himself to keeping open the road to Kabul and maintaining a partial control over the tribesmen by commanding their cultivation.Some time about the end of the 16th or the beginning of the 17th century occurred the great schism in the Yusafzai tribe. This tribe upon first taking possession of their present seats were accompanied by three Sheikhs of great repute and sanctity. To one of these, Sheikh Mali, was entrusted the work of dividing the new territory among the several branches of the tribe. In Kandahar and Kabul the latter had been known by one common appellation-Yusafzai. As their numbers increased however and their possessions were enlarged, two divisions sprang up -Yusafzai and Mandanr-the latter being the descendents of Mandanr, the nephew of Yusaf. Both Yusaf and Mandanr being descended from Khakhai, Sheikh Mali awarded both sections all area of hill country with a complementary plain tract and these were partitioned by lot among the several clans and sub-divisions.

The two main sections remained for some time united in their new seats but dissensions ensued which were enhanced and possibly originally instigated by Moghal intrigue. Finally the Yusafzais of Swat and Buner arose and expelled all Mandanr tribesmen from these territories. The latter leaving their women in Chamla descended to the plain and retaliated by expelling the Yusafzai families settled there. The Baizai section only of Yusafzais who made a stand in the Lundkhwar Valley was not ejected at this time. Later also they continued to hold this valley with the aid of Khattak auxiliaries whom they called in to assist them in their struggle with Mandanr.

In modern days, however, only a few communities of true Yusafzai remain in the plain. The Lund-khwar Valley is now mainly occupied by the descendants of the same Khattak auxiliaries who came to assist the Yusafzais and ended by occupying most of the tract. Three villages only in Baizai, namely Matta, Shamozai and Babozai, remain inhabited by true Yusafzai. Elsewhere in the plain the Mandanr section was left in sole occupation. The state of the district remained unaltered during the reign ofJahangir and Shah Jahan. 

The Pathan tribes rendered a nominal allegiance to the Delhi Emperors punctuated by periods of commotion and turbulence when a weak Governor or a foreign war furnished them with an opportunity.<br> At length in 1668 they openly revolted and crossing the Indus in large numbers they devasted Chach and out the line of communication between Kabul and Delhi. They suffered a reverse near Attock but at Peshawar defeated the royal troops sent by Amin Khan, Governor of Kabul, to suppress the emeute. 

For a time the insurgent Pathans were sole masters of the Peshawar plain and in the almost continual fighting of these years the Yusafzais gained a great reputation for valour and martial prowess. Aurangzeb, who was now on the throne of Delhi, marched in person at the head of an army to re-establish the authority of his Government. Arrived at Hassan Abdal he conducted the general course of the operations from there, the actual command in the field devolving on his son Sultan. 

The struggle persisted for two years 1673-1675 till finally the Emperor was compelled to agree to terms, which left the Pathans practically independent and withdrew his forces to India.This period is distinguished in Pathan annals by the verses and deeds of the renowned Khushal Khan, the Khattak chief, poet, patriot and warrior. Khushal Khan has Ieft a history and some poems of considerable merit-the latter indited in the days of the Pathans struggle with the Moghals. To rouse the Pathan youth and excite their patriotism, the great deeds of their forefathers are counted in glowing stanzas, while the young men of the day are taunted for their lack of manly spirit and martial ardour

The History of Rawalpindi

      
Rawalpindi 
                   Yaadgar-e-Shuhada, Rawalpindi.It is located within the boundary walls of GHQ in the memory of all Shaheeds of Pakistan’s Armed Forces. Foreign dignitaries visit this site and lay flower wreaths.
  Lal Haveli. The Lal Haveli, located in the bustling centre of Rawalpindi near the famous Raja Bazar, is owned by Sheikh Rashid Ahmad, a politician and former Federal Minister. The Lal Haveli is one of the most visited attractions in Rawalpindi. The magnificent building and the tastefully designed interiors of Lal Haveli attract the attention of tourists.
 
Holy Family Hospital, Rawalpindi. Holy Family Hospital was established in 1927 by the Christian mission of Philadelphia at Murree Road Rawalpindi. It was designed by an Italian architect, prisoner of World War 2.
The hospital was shifted to the present building in 1946.
It was taken over by Punjab Government in 1977 and affiliated with Rawalpindi Medical College as a teaching hospital.


  Government College, Asghar Mall. College’s history is very old. It was ‘Sanatan Dharam’ School, established by a Hindu Trust in 1904. The present building shown in this photo was constructed in 1914. After partition, the status of school was raised to status of a college on October 19,1948 and so TheGovernment College Asghar Mall Rawalpindi emerged.


Rawalpindi Medical College, Tipu Road. Established in March 1974 at Faisalabad, the college was shifted to its present premises in November the same year.



Rawalpind city, Punjab province, northern Pakistan. It was the capital of Pakistan from 1959 to 1969. The city lies on the Potohar Plateau and is situated 9 miles (14 km) southwest of Islamabad, the national capital. Rawalpindi ("Village of Rawals") occupies the site of an old village inhabited by the Rawals, a group of yogis (ascetics). Certain ruins on the site are identified with the ancient city Gajipur, or Gajnipur, the capital of the Bhatti tribe before the Common era. Destroyed during the Mongol invasion (14th century AD), the town was restored by the Gakkhar chief Jhanda Khan, who gave it its present name. It grew rapidly in importance when Milka Singh, a Sikh adventurer, occupied it in 1765 and invited settlers from the Jhelum and Shahpur areas to settle there. The British annexed it in 1849. 

The Leh River separates the city from the cantonment (permanent military station), and a satellite town has been built on the Murree Road. Rawalpindi is an important administrative, commercial, and industrial centre. Its industries include locomotive works, gasworks, an oil refinery, sawmills, an iron foundry, a brewery, and cotton, hosiery, and textile mills; it also produces shoes, leather goods, pottery, newsprint, and tents. An annual horse fair is held in April. Rawalpindi was incorporated as a municipality in 1867 and contains Ayub National Park, Liaqat Gardens, a polytechnic school, a police-training institute, an armed forces medical college, and several colleges affiliated with the University of the Punjab. It is also the Pakistan army headquarters. 

Rawalpindi is the starting point of the route into Kashmir and is connected by the Grand Trunk Road, rail, and air with the cities of Peshawar and Lahore and by rail and air with Karachi. 

Wheat, barley, corn (maize), and millet are the chief crops grown in the surrounding area. The nearby Rawal Dam, on the Kurang River, completed in 1961-62, provides Rawalpindi and Islamabad with water. 

In ancient times the locality formed part of Gandhara and was included in the Achaemenid Persian Empire. The ancient city of Taxila has been identified with ruins located near Shahderi, northwest of Rawalpindi. Mankial, south of Rawalpindi, is a Buddhist stupa site (3rd century BC) Pop. (1981) city, 794,843; (1981 prelim.) metropolitan area, 1,299,000. The materiel remained found on the site of the city of Rawalpindi prove the existence of a Buddhist establishment contemporary to Taxila but less celebrated than its neighbor does. It appears that the Ancient city went into oblivation as a result of the Hun devastation. The first Muslim endeavor, Mahmood of Ghasni (979-1030 AD) gifted the ruined city to a Ghakkar Chief, Kai Gohar. The town, however being on indavours route, could not prosper and remain deserted until Jahanda Khan, another Ghakkar Chief, resorted it and gave the name of Rawalpindi after the village Rawal in 1943 AD. Rawalpindi remained under the rule of Ghakkars till Muqrab Khan, the last Ghakkar rullar, was defeated by Sikhs in 1765 AD. Sikhs invited traders from other places to settle here. This brought the city into prominence. Sikhs lost the city to British Army and they established a cantonment south of the old city. In 1879, the Punjab northern Railway was extended to Rawalpindi but the train service was formally inaugurated on January 01, 1886. 

Over the years, Rawalpindi has retained its traditional flavor. However some modern residential areas and buildings have come up all over the town since the creation of Pakistan. Pakistan's new capital, Islamabad, being the twin city of Rawalpindi, equally shares the same archaeological and history background. 

The Old City and Bazaars:

The bazaars of the old city offer exciting bargains. You can leisurely browse in the quaint old shops in Saddar bazaar, Moti bazaar, Raja bazaar and Kashmiri bazaar while Sarafa bazaar is famous for beaten gold and silver jewellery, brass and copper-ware. 

Rawalpindi specializes in handicrafts such as inlaid sheesham and walnut furniture, Kashmiri silver, shawls and jackets, embroidered and woolen 'Kurtas' and household linen, Potohar Jooties and Chappals (slippers), cane baskets and furniture, walking sticks and hand-woven Kashmiri and Bokhara carpets. You can go shopping for these items at handicraft and carpet shops in Saddar bazaar, especially around Flashman's Hotel and Rawalpindi Club building on the Mall. 

PARKS AND GARDENS

Liaquat Memorial Hall and Garden: This hall was built in memory of late Mr. Liaquat Ali Khan, the first Prime Minister of Pakistan. It has a large auditorium and library. Art exhibitions, cultural shows and stage plays are performed here frequently. A well-laid garden with sports facilities and children's park has been developed near the hall. 

Ayub National Park:

Ayub National Park is located beyond the old Presidency on Grand Trunk (G.T.) Road. It covers an area of about 2,300 acres and has a play-land, lake with boating facility, an aquarium, a garden-restaurant and an open air theater. 

Rawalpindi Golf Course:

Situated near Ayub National Park, Rawalpindi Golf Course was completed in 1926 by Rawalpindi Golf Club, one of the oldest golf clubs of Pakistan, founded on 2nd November 1885. The facility was initially developed as a nine-hole course. After several phases of development, it is now converted into a 27-hole course. The successive Presidents of Pakistan are patronizing the club. From the elegant clubhouse, one can have a wonderful panorama of Faisal Mosque, the twin cities of Islamabad and Rawalpindi and the Golf Course itself. Major national golf tournaments are held here regularly. For more information, please contact the Assistant Secretary, Rawalpindi Golf Club, G.T. Road, Rawalpindi (Tel: 56131346). 

Rawalpindi Public Park and Cricket Stadium: 

Rawalpindi Public Park is located on Murree Road near Shamsabad. The Park was opened for public in 1991. It has a playland for children, grassy lawns, fountains and flower beds. A cricket stadium was built in 1992 just opposite the Public Park. The 1992 World Cup cricket matches were held on this cricket ground. The stadium is equipped with all modern facilities.